Fabrics
180 GSM vs 220 GSM vs 240 GSM T-Shirts
A practical comparison of three common T-shirt weights — feel, drape, printing, cost drivers and which brands each suits.
180, 220 and 240 GSM are three of the most requested T-shirt weights. Each suits a different product position. Here is how they compare in practice.
At a glance
| 180 GSM | 220 GSM | 240 GSM | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Feel | Soft, lighter, flexible | Solid, smooth, premium | Dense, structured |
| Drape | Follows the body | Holds shape moderately | Stands away from the body |
| Opacity | Good in dark colours; lighter colours can show through | Good | Very good |
| Best for | Everyday basics, merch, multipacks | Premium basics, DTC core ranges | Streetwear, boxy and oversized fits |
| Relative fabric use | Lowest | Medium | Highest |
Cost drivers
Heavier fabric uses more cotton per garment, so fabric cost and freight weight rise with GSM. But weight is only one driver: yarn type, dyeing, finishing, print method and quantity per colour often matter as much. We avoid quoting fixed price differences between weights because they depend on the full specification.
Printing and embellishment
All three weights print well. Heavier fabrics give a more stable base for large screen prints and puff prints; lighter fabrics can show the feel of a heavy plastisol print more. Embroidery generally sits better on 220 GSM and above.
Fit
240 GSM naturally suits boxy, drop-shoulder and oversized cuts. 180 GSM suits regular and slim fits where drape matters. 220 GSM works across most fits.
How to decide
- Price-led basics or merch: 160–180 GSM
- Premium everyday core range: 200–220 GSM
- Streetwear or statement blanks: 240 GSM and above
The best way to decide is side by side. We can send reference samples at different weights — request a sample — or see our T-shirt range. For the basics of fabric weight, read what GSM means.